At Fukasaku in Prince Rupert, every dish tells a story—one of care, sustainability, and a deep respect for the ocean. When Chef Dai Fukasaku opened the restaurant in 2013, his vision was bold: to prove a restaurant could thrive using only the freshest, sustainably caught seafood sourced within British Columbia. And he's done precisely that.
"I knew it would be challenging, but it felt like the right choice—for the town and community I love. . ."
The inspiration for Fukasaku began years earlier when Dai first arrived in Northern BC. Despite the region's rich waters, he noticed much of its incredible seafood wasn't available to locals.
"Growing up in Tokyo, seafood was always an integral part of my life," Dai recalls. "I started daydreaming about opening a restaurant showcasing only local seafood once I became a landed immigrant in Canada."
(All photos by Chelsey Ellis Photography.)
Dai envisioned an eatery rooted in four guiding values—know where the ingredients come from and who harvests them, build a menu around what's available locally, purchase whole rather than pre-packaged or pre-made, and add value, appreciation, and respect to every ingredient.
When the time came, Dai approached the CEO of a local fish plant with his vision and a list of seafood he wanted to feature. Not only could they supply everything he needed, but they also fully supported his idea.
Determined to go further, Dai reached out to Ocean Wise, a conservation program that evaluates sustainable seafood practices. He was thrilled to learn nearly all the ingredients he sourced were Ocean Wise Recommended.
"That realization marked the moment I fully committed to this practice," Dai says. "I knew it would be challenging, but it felt like the right choice—for the town and community I love, the ocean, and the fishers who work so hard to harvest these resources."
Sticking to his principles hasn't come without challenges. Logistics are a constant puzzle—securing local catches before they're shipped out and stocking up on seasonal ingredients like sockeye salmon and spot prawns, which are only available for a few weeks to a few months each year.
For produce, Dai follows what he calls a "10-traffic-light diet," sourcing from farms along a 350-kilometer stretch between Smithers and Prince Rupert. Coordinating transportation can be tricky, but his community often steps in, lending extra space in their vehicles.
Unlike most chefs, who plan dishes first and order ingredients to match, Dai flips the process entirely. He waits to see what arrives from local producers and lets the ingredients inspire his menu. During harvest season, for example, he receives a weekly share from Farmer Cam's Foods—but the contents are always a surprise until delivery day.
At its heart, Dai's mission has always been to share his excitement for Northern BC's culinary treasures—preparing them with care, intention, and zero shortcuts.
"While not all guests may be fully aware of our practices and philosophy, most can taste the difference in the seafood we serve," he says.
This creative, ingredient-driven approach is deeply rooted in Japanese culinary tradition. At the heart of Dai's philosophy is mottainai (もったいない), a concept shaped by Buddhism that conveys regret over waste and reverence for resources. In the kitchen, mottainai means honouring ingredients by minimizing waste, using every part, and appreciating the effort behind their production. Dai often pays a premium for whole, unprocessed ingredients, knowing their quality and versatility justify the cost. He applies mottainai to create byproduct dishes that lower waste—and operating expenses—while delivering exceptional flavor.
". . . most can taste the difference in the seafood we serve."
Take sidestripe shrimp, for example. The tails star in sushi, sashimi, and other dishes, while the shells are frozen for soup stock, shrimp oil, and seasoning. Or hakurei turnips from Farmer Cam's Foods—Dai uses the roots in salads and soups and repurposes the leafy tops for stir-fries, pickles, or soups. Black cod is another standout. Dai buys J-cut cod (gutted, head removed) and fillets it in-house. The trimmings become fish stock, and the belly—often discarded by Western chefs—is simmered in a soy-based sauce for his signature Eelish Black Cod Roll.
"Occasionally, we're lucky enough to receive [fish] collars from thoughtful fishermen," says Dai. "These are marinated in our signature maple miso glaze for a week before being served as a special."
Dai's famous Northwest Ramen perfectly embodies the mottainai mindset. This pescatarian ramen has a rich tomato, miso, and fish broth and comes topped with tuna flake, sidestripe shrimp, shrimp oil, chilli oil, green onion, and a half-boiled egg. It's one of Fukasaku's most beloved dishes, and its layered flavours come from using every scrap of available ingredients. The soup broth is crafted from fish bones saved after filleting oily fish like black cod and Chinook salmon, combined with shrimp and crab shells, then enriched with tomato paste, miso, and sake-kasu (sake lees sourced from Artisan SakeMaker on Granville Island). Tuna flake, made from fibrous cuts of tuna unsuitable for sashimi or nigiri, is minced and simmered with ginger soy sauce to create a savoury topping. Shrimp oil, derived from simmering shrimp shells in canola oil, adds a rich, aromatic flavour, while bold chilli oil is made by infusing spices into leftover oil from making garlic chips for the tuna tataki appetizer. Occasionally, prawn heads are added to the broth to deepen its flavour, offering an additional treat for diners who enjoy savouring the juices directly from them.
"My goal is to inspire other chefs and business owners to embrace sustainability. . ."
This dish wasn't born from a recipe but from instinct. Dai saved leftover ingredients, knowing they'd serve a purpose. One day, while making a ramen lunch for himself, he combined tomato broth with miso soup—and this quick improvised experiment became one of his most celebrated creations. By weaving Japanese traditions into his work, Dai proves sustainability can elevate creativity and flavour.
More than half of Fukasaku's guests opt for the Omakase menu—a multi-course, chef's-choice tasting experience. It's labour-intensive, and since Dai is the sole chef, the restaurant operates just four nights a week with seating between 5:00 PM and 7:30 PM. Despite these shorter hours, Fukasaku continues to thrive—growing its reputation.
When the pandemic hit, Dai adapted quickly. He expanded Fukasaku to include a marketplace and increased production of the restaurant's house-branded dressings. Beyond keeping the restaurant afloat, the marketplace has helped educate customers about the value of supporting local and sustainable practices—creating a ripple effect of positive change in the wider community.
Running the restaurant keeps Dai busy, but when he finds time to step away, he heads outdoors. Hiking, kayaking, running, golfing, skiing, and foraging for mushrooms in and around Prince Rupert recharge his creativity and deepen his connection to the land and sea.
Dai's work may take decades to reveal its full impact, but even now, his voice is being sought on critical issues like local food sourcing, food security, and food sovereignty. As Fukasaku celebrates its 11th year, Dai hopes to expand his influence, share ideas about sustainability, and encourage more people to support local food systems.
"My goal is to inspire other chefs and business owners to embrace sustainability—not just as a philosophy, but as a driver of culinary excellence, business success, and community impact," says Dai.